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The Site Of A Massacre During The Emergency, The Turkman Gate Stands Strong In Old Delhi

delhidweller
Delhi Dweller 10 Sept 2017

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The gates of Delhi are a story unto themselves, a repository of all that transpired from one ruler to the other in the course of history. Not merely entry and exit points, each one of these gates has invariably been a focal point of some key event. Turkman Gate, our monument in question for instance, witnessed a terrible massacre during the period of National Emergency under Indira Gandhi’s rule in 1976, where many people were killed protesting against forceful eviction and destruction of unauthorized colonies (also called ‘urban villages’ in the present context, a microcosm of the past amidst the present).

Its Prominent Location

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Located in the congested and forever bustling environs of Old Delhi, Turkman Gate derives its name from the Sufi saint Hazrat Shah Turkman Bayabani, whose tomb is located near the gate. The gate was an entry-exit point on the Southern side of the city of Shahjahanabad. Typical of that era, the gate is built upon a rectilinear platform in a square form with high-arched openings. Red sandstone is the chief building material used and the gate is adorned with minimal decorations.

Inevitable Encroachment

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This area has seen massive encroachment, some of them unavoidable as the population along with the dimensions of the metropolis grew exponentially after Independence, many famous monuments being either lost or in the process of being lost as a consequence (Razia Sultan’s tomb is one, Kali Masjid is another, both very hard to locate and set deep behind slums and sewers). The forceful eviction tried out in 1976 only ended up in heightening the communal tension, the aftershocks of which can be felt even today.

Good To Have Info

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The monument is usually locked with the guard rarely in sight, so noon is the best time to catch the gentleman in action. There is a small police check post inside the gated complex which can be another medium of assistance. Do take care while roaming around in the area and dress very modestly. One might find people a bit antagonistic at times, but as explained before, much of that is owing to the aftermath of the 1976 incident, another discussion to be avoided as some of the locals might just get offended. If possible, do take acompanion along and remain only in the crowded areas. 

Chawri Bazaar is the nearest metro station (a modern day architectural marvel in itself). One can arrive here in the morning and have a taste of the famous Old Delhi breakfast before proceeding on to the Gate. 

While one might think of giving the monument a pass owing to the many restrictions, it is still recommended as one of the few places where the present still holds a perspective of the past, so do come by if the opportunity presents itself!

Location | Near Ajmeri Gate, Old Delhi

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