Unravelling The Forgotten History & Overlooked Expanse of The Karbala Graveyard

A word of caution to the adventurers out there - nobody knows the Karbala graveyard in BK Dutt colony by its name. If you ask the auto walas, one would probably think you’re talking about Najaf Khan’s tomb, which is quite nearby, and take you there. So when you get out from the Jor Bagh metro station, don’t make the mistake of asking for the Karbala Graveyard because there’s no such thing according to the locals. Ask for the Taziawala instead and you’ll find that it’s barely 200 metres from the metro station (an easy walk). 

Remembering the Past

As you climb up the stairs, the closed gate and the strict list of rules and regulations next to it might make you want to avoid entering this place, but it doesn’t do any harm to take a look. This graveyard, or Taziawala as it’s called, is a far cry from any graveyard or garden you can think of. It’s barely a graveyard. Karbala is a Shiite burial ground in BK Dutt Colony for the funeral of tazias, the ritual coffins of Imam Husain Ibn Ali (the prophet’s grandson). If you look carefully, you’ll be able to clearly see the auspicious material (or whatever remains of them now) used to perform the rituals, on or near a couple of graves. 

Morning Beauty

The birds are the life and beauty of this graveyard. Peacocks, parrots and eagles can be spotted easily. Look up at one of the leafless trees and you’ll find a group of parrots chirping away together. Watch out for big eagles swooping low in an attempt to catch a tiny creature for their breakfast and if you're lucky you’ll get to see peacocks open their magnificent feathers and dance beautifully trying to woo the peahens. It is indeed a truly mesmerising sight. 
You might also catch a glimpse of tiny purple-pink flowers growing here and there, however, not many flowers can be found amongst the rapidly growing weeds but the nursery on the other side of the ground abounds in a variety of flowers. The best time to come here is in the morning, around 8 - 9 AM. 

Rest in Peace

Some tombs are covered with green, red or blue silk. The cloths that cover the tombstones have bricks resting on their corners so that they don’t fly off during windy days, leaving the grave exposed to elements, however, some of the graves lie uncovered. In the centre of the ground is a tomb built on an elevated structure, the stairs of which seem to be going through a renovation process. One is required to remove their shoes on the stairs if they wish to have a closer look at the grave inside. Right behind this structure is a room, belonging to the caretaker perhaps. 

Spooky By Night

As it gets darker, the scary lonesomeness of the place may get to you. It is advisable not to stay here long after sunset. You should leave before the eerie silence gets the better of you or if you’re the fearless, adventurous kind, you can stay on at your own risk, although it is highly unlikely that you’ll be allowed to.

Whether you're an adventure-seeker or nature lover, this timid, forgotten place is definitely worth a visit!